30 August 2011 - Fenny Compton to Little Bourton

Set off about 9.30 with it taking well over an hour to get to the top of the Claydon flight (lock 17).  By the time we arrived the lock was open and any queue had long since disappeared.  We met boats coming the other way through the flight, but apart from these we saw very very few boats moving all day.  It appears as though BW's warnings and the restrictions have frightened most boats away.  This was weird compared to our voyage through here a few weeks ago when boats were wall to wall for the Cropredy Festival.
At Cropredy we parked up and walked into the village to get bread and milk and a few other essential supplies ;-) Whilst in the village we sought out the Church.  This is a beautiful 12th & 13th century church.  Took photos of gargoyles on the aisle roofline.

St Mary The Virgin, Cropredy

Gargoyles & Grotesques taken 30.8.2011

1. Negroid figure

2. Cat

3. Monkey

4. Man with beard

5. Hooded man (monk?)

6. Disfigured man (my favourite)

7. Figure wearing cat mask

8. Proper gargoyles are connected with water-spouts

9. Curly haired face

As we could not get any internet connection we decided to move south from Cropredy for the night, ending up only a few hundred yards north of where we dropped one of the bikes in the canal on the way up.

29 August 2011 - Napton to Fenny Compton

Lock 15 was opened early by BW so we had no delay going through 15 and 16.  After 16 we filled up with water and Annie started some washing.  Arrived at Fenny Compton at lunchtime to find the shower head had been running and the bath was brim full.  Pumped bath out and cleaned up bathroom of some overspill, then headed off to The Wharf Inn for lunch.  Sat reading in the pub for part of the afternoon.  Locks 17 to 21 padlocked at 4pm and still an hour and a half away so we stayed here the night.

28 August 2011 - Remained at Napton lock 14

Weather was rather iffy with heavy showers sweeping over at regular intervals.  Also - its the Belgian Grand Prix so we decided to remain moored here for the day.  A most excellent race watched on TV meant that the batteries were run flat and we had to run the engine for a couple of hours to recharge them. In the evening we walked down to the Folly Inn at the bottom of the locks - which the book said was closed.  For a closed pub it was very lively and serves a great pint of Old Hooky.  On our way back we came across a couple of boaters flapping about because the water level in the pound they were in had dropped over the previous 2 hours.  One was a young family worried that low levels might sink the boat.  The other was a nasty piece of work threatening to sue BW if his boat was damaged.  They were being assisted by a helpful nearby resident boater who had contacted BW.  BW had advised (sensibly) for them to just move out of the pound.  Annie and I took over from the helpful boater (so he could return to the Folly and go back to his pint).  We took the family up a few locks, leaving them in a safe none-leaking pound.

Prefabricated block house from WW2.  The slit will take a rifle
not a machine gun.  Thank heavens the Germans never invaded!

27 August 2011 - Braunston to Napton

Sunny first thing and we managed to get all the wet kit dry on the roof in no time at all.  Kim & Bob packed up and we walked them over to the car at 11am to say goodbye.  We set off soon afterwards to make for Napton. Napton locks 15 to 21 have severe restrictions on to save water and we will probably have to queue.  This section of canal is like the M1 with moored boats all over the place too.  Braunston junction marks the completion of the Leicester Ring as it is known.
Stopped at 1pm to watch the Grand Prix practice.  Moments after we stopped we were hit by a big thunderstorm and heavy rain - nice timing!
Once on the North Oxford all the boats spookily disappeared. We went up the first few locks without seeing another moving boat. Moored up below lock 14 with yet another drop dead view out of the window.

60 seconds from this......

........to this!

26 August 2011 - Crick to Braunston

Our guest-crew

The day started with light rain - which got steadily heavier throughout the day.  Just what you want when you have visitors aboard.Set off after a cooked breakfast - straight into the Crick Tunnel.  At least the first part of the day was dry then....  Once out of the tunnel  we passed the back of Watford Gap services so temporarily moored the boat while Kim & Bob climbed over the fence to return with lunch for all from McDonalds. Moving off the next obstacle is the Watford flight - a reasonably sized staircase.  There were 1/2 dozen boats coming up and a couple in front going down so we had about 40 minutes to wait.  Fortunately our place in the queue had us directly beneath the M1 overbridge, so we were nice and dry.  However we proceeded to get drenched during the rest of the trip to Braunston - though it was a big help having Bob helping us through the locks.   Moored up, changed and dry, Bob and I got a taxi back to Crick to collect the car, while Annie and Kim did tea and ladies hairdressing.We just got back before the heavens opened again so we decided not to venture out the short walk to the pub, but played scrabble until midnight.

Ceilidh at the bottom of  Watford staircase

25 August 2011 - Remained moored at Crick

Kim phoned to say they would be with us early afternoon.  I emptied the rubbish and walked into the shops  whilst Annie baked Kim a birthday cake. We walked up to the road to meet them and direct car parking opposite the post office.  After unpacking the kids we all walked up to "The Moorings" for a drink then back to watch 'Torchwood'.  Is it just me or isnt this series as good as the old ones?

Lady found a rabbit during her morning walk with Annie
She was trying to 'round it up' and bring it back to the boat.

24 August 2011 - Yelvertoft to Crick

Kim texted to say she & Bob were safely back from Egypt and would join us tomorrow and stay over till Saturday.  Looking at the map it looked like the run from Crick to Braunston would be fun to do with them. We therefore decided to move the boat up Crick to meet them there. Set off late as it only took an hour to get there - no locks. Moored up and walked into the village to find the shops, having a swift dram on the way at "The Moorings".  Walked Lady up 'Cracks Hill' - not terribly high but a great view and very dramatic.

23 August 2011 - Welford to Yelvercroft

Heavy rain all morning so stayed where we were.  Rain stopped at lunchtime and we took the dog a walk across the fields.  Set off at 2pm, more to charge the batteries than anything.  Delayed by slow moving boat in front.  New shiny boat with the most fabulous artwork painted on the side, but driver on tick-over the whole time seemingly not wanting to scratch his lovely boat. Stopped at 6pm, sat out on the bank to make the most of a lovely sunny evening.
 

22 August 2011 - Foxton to Welford

Last night walking the dog there was no moon and no clouds and not a breath of wind.  The sky was a vault of stars - all perfectly reflected in the mirror surface of the canal.  It was surreal looking down, seeing the constellations and even moving satellites. Sadly unable to photograph it as I havent got the right kit with me.

The morning was warm with long periods of sunshine and we decided to crack on as the weather doesnt look too promising for tomorrow. We came this way a few years ago in a hire boat, and spotted the place we nearly blew the engine up and had to wait overnight for an engineer. Passed through the Husbands Bosworth tunnel at lunchtime.

We decided not to explore the short Welford arm but went on past, stopping shortly afterwards to do some engine maintenance.  As it was such a remote spot we decided to stay.  I walked the dog over the fields into Welford  leaving Annie sewing.

Backofbeyond - our mooring for the night of 22nd near Welford

21 August 2011 - Market Harborough to Foxton

View from our over-night mooring

Had a nice Sunday lie-in and set off back to Foxton at 11am.  The sun came out and it developed into a lovely hot day.  Which gave us a problem at Foxton.
Now there are two universes.  The outside universe of traffic jams, rushing around and.... work. There is also the canal universe where the world goes by at 4mph (tops) and everybody says hello to everyone else.  Time is different too and the sun has been known to be above the yard arm as early as midday.
Foxton is the anomaly - the portal between the worlds - a place where the two universes collide.
You see people from the normal world know about Foxton, with its awe inspiring staircase of 10 locks and they have turned it into at ATTRACTION.  The problem is that Canal people also appreciate the beauty, but need to get up and down the aforementioned flight while they are appreciating it.  And the hundreds and hundreds of visitors from the other universe get in the way.
People from the canal universe call people from the other universe GONGOOZLERS.  A gongoozler will stand at the lock-side and put their nose so close to the boats window to look in that you can count the nostril marks. They also ask dumb questions.
"How long is it?".  "Its 54foot". "Is that long?" "Er.... its 54 feet long"
"Where do you come from?" "Oh weve come up from Reading". "Wow!  Did you bring the boat on a lorry?"
Annie had a good one.  "I cant see in!". "No, thats because Ive drawn the curtains." "Why?" "So nobody can see in."
We booked in with the lock-keeper - who as well as lock-keeping does a good job as a circus ring master. 30 minutes later he gave us a wave and we started our ascent.  From bottom to top took a little over an hour. Moored at the top and I went back to go around the museum, whilst Annie caught up on her sewing and the ships dog licked itself clean from all the sticky gongoozlers fingers that had petted her on the way up.

The portal between the worlds. Note Gongoozlers on the left.

View down the portal locks

1896 & 1903 Motor Car Act Signage

20 August 2011 - Foxton to Market Harborough

Todays leg was an arm.  The Market Harborough arm to be exact.  An arm is the canal equivalent of a cul-de-sac.  Some arms are quite short - I have turned sharp right off a main canal, beneath a beautiful 200 year old wrought iron bridge and traveled to the very end of an arm ..... and still had the back end of the boat sticking out into the main canal!  The Market Harborough arm however is quite a long one - 2 hours motoring through the lovely Leicestershire countryside (still being combined here - a bit late).  At its end there is the delightful and picturesque basin and wharf.  We turned the boat around and moored up, then out to sample the heady delights of town.  It has all the usual stuff, but nicely presented.  Annie replaced the knitting needle that jumped ship, and also sewing threads that had run out.  Iced buns and cider too.... essential stuff.

Turning the boat by letting the wind blow it round

19 August 2011 - Kilby Bridge to Foxton

With water fast disappearing down a plug hole somewhere in the canal, we got up early and were ready to set off to the next lock, ready for British Waterways to unpadlock it.  We were pipped to the post by Nb. Millrace whom we had got chatting to in the pub last night, motoring out at about 8.30.  We followed minutes behind and were soon joined by Brian in Nb. Presque La.  Brian brested up on Ceilidh as we all waited for the BW man to arrive.  It quickly became clear it wasnt going to be a 9am opening - the restriction had been tightened to operation only between the hours of 10am and 2pm.  We would have just 4 hours to get to lock 18 from lock 29 a difficult task.  However we were joined by Nb. Laura Colleen with a crew of 4.  a pair of narrowboats working together is ideal and now we had 2 pairs.  It was decided Ceilidh work with Millrace and Laura Colleen work with Presque La as both Millrace & Presque La were single handers (a technical term for mad people who boat on their own)

Millrace was built by J Pinder Ltd - the same boat builder as Ceilidh

The BW chap duly arrived and removed the padlocks so we could make a start.  The pounds differed in length from a couple of hundred yards to over a mile, and each varied in depth.  Some were normal level allowing swift passage, but several were very low.  Our boats became mud-skippers and at times were not churning their way through water at all, but seemingly liquid mud.

Whilst we were following Millrace quite closely, at one point he went into a lock ahead of us, immediately to be followed by another boat which had been moored up, before we could get there.  There were now 5 boats in our convoy, and getting them all to lock 18 by 2pm was going to be even harder.  This wasn't helped by our new addition being  'several sandwiches short of a picnic' as Millrace described.  One of Laura Colleen's crew walked ahead to lock 18 and got the waiting BW operatives reassurance that he would not lock up until we were all through that section - which we all managed by about 2:10pm.

We all made our way towards the Foxton flight, through the Saddington Tunnel (800 yards).  Ceilidh and Laura Colleen stopped off at Debdale Marina - we filled up with diesel and pumped out our loo tank - before  getting to Foxton.  Our 'forced march' because of restricted hours due to the water shortage has meant that we have actually got here much faster than anticipated so we decided to turn left to Market Harborough tomorrow (2 hours) and come back to continue up the Foxton flight on Sunday.

18 August 2011 - Kings Lock to Kilby Lock

"Presque La" setting off ahead of "Ceilidh"

We were all ready to go as the BW man arrived to unlock the lock gates.  He looked worriedly at the pound above the lock through which we must pass.  "Is it safe to go?" I asked.  "Well its up to you" he replied helpfully. He gave us his phone number in case we got stuck. Nb.Presque La was the only other boat going in our direction.  We had first seen this with Pam & Phil at Willington and he had arrived at 2pm yesterday, too late to start through.  Brian, the owner was travelling alone and set off first, with Ceilidh close behind.  The BW man had advised us to go slowly on tick-over and keep to the very centre of the channel.  With 8 locks and seven pounds (the canal between the locks) to get through, the first pound was the worst by a good way.  Brian ran aground a couple of times ahead of us and had to pole himself off.  Whilst we hit several underwater obstacles ( er.... Clunk!) we made it all the way.  Half way through it began raining quite hard and made the rest of the slow ahead journey quite miserable.
Arrived at Kilby Lock at 1.30pm and decided with Brian to stop here because of the rain.

Mud showing at the edges shows water levels are over 2ft too low

Blue-green plume of poisonous algae - hope Lady doesn't fall in!

17 August 2011 - Barrow on Soar to Kings Lock, Leicester

The last boat through the lock last night told us he had turned around as there was no water south of Leicester and boats couldnt get through.  The British Waterways website seemed to say otherwise and that we could pass with care but hours of operation were restricted.  We decided to press on.  Met up with nb.Deacon Blue and nb.Grace whom we had seen travelling together as long ago as Banbury - they were doing the Leicester ring the other way round and had just come north through Leicester.  Shallow but still do-able at the moment they told us.

Going into one lock we met eight gentleman in a day boat.  They had all gone to the Loughborough Grammar School (class of 1948) and had a reunion every year by hiring a boat and going for a meal.  We travelled together for several locks, during which time they steadily consumed their huge stock of wine and beers.  Several bottles of port were reserved for after the meal and the journey back.  Annie threatened to jump ship and join them.

The 'class of '48' geriatric drinking party

Entering Leicester things became steadily more industrial and threatening.  Every lock had groups of youths congregating, along with a bunch of alcoholics swigging away.  However all seemed quite affable, although we were asked if we had any food or drink, and could they have a go!  Sorry lads.... The centre of Leicester has a glorious straight mile of river - lovely and wide.  Whilst we saw a rowing club, similarities with Oxford and the Thames stopped there.  The river was choked with weed, buildings alongside were derelict and the river was shut in and threatening. We couldnt help feeling that, industrial though it was, the city had turned its back on the river rather than making it a focal point to be proud of. Someone is missing a trick.

Landscape of chimneys - Leicester's dereliction

The cities forgotten 'straight mile'

Inexplicably Lady decided to fall into the canal - not once but twice.  First time she just toppled in off the deck and swam to the side.  Fortunately this was right next to some canal work and a British Waterways  chap pulled her out for us.  Lady was a bit of a liability today.....

Lady just after being dragged out of the canal
Fortunately her harness helped.

We arrived at Kings Lock - the top of the restriction - at 5pm.  The lock, and the next few along, were padlocked until 9am tomorrow to save water. Fortunately we were now through the grotty bits and out in the open.  2 other boats were there and it all looked quite pleasant and safe. Good TV reception - yipee!

16 August 2011 - Sutton Bonington to Barrow on Soar

But then the sun came out....

Annie getting wet

Set off at 10am.  Strong wind blowing making it difficult to steer in places.  Soon after starting - the rain began.  When we got to Loughborough we went straight on down the town centre arm to the little wharf at the end.  Wind blew us all over the place as we tried to find somewhere to tie up.  2 boats moved off the water point and I took on water while Annie went shopping.  Tank was full when she returned carrying an incredible amount of ships stores!  Moving lock gates has done wonders for her biceps! Got talking to another boat coming in for water and the boater told us there was almost no water between Leicester and Foxton.  He was hinting we might be better going back the way we had come. After deliberation we decided to continue but the trick would be to avoid getting stuck going through Leicester which has a history of anti-social behaviour with thefts from boats, things being thrown etc.
Called in at a passing marina to see if they had a BW anti-vandal key.  In the marina boats were moored leaving wide aisles but a dead end.  As we got to the end the wind picked up and couldnt turn around, being blown against moored craft.   With the help of a marina employee we backed into a berth so we could get around and headed back out - no purchase made.  Moored up above Barrow on Soar deep lock, but no TV signal.

Annie spotted Jemima on someone elses boat

15 August 2011 - Willington to Sutton Bonington

• Monday dawned bright with just a few wispy clouds to spoil the blue. Managed to defy the odds and set of at 8am.  Just as we were departing a nearby boat was also moving off, so we followed them down to Stenson lock and went through it with them.  Trying to exit the lock the lower gates wouldnt quite open all the way and we managed to get both boats jammed together in the exit!  Only by removing all the fenders did we manage to free them.  We were to remain with this boat - a 72ft tug named "Mecca" and converted from a 1920s butty - all day.

Negotiating Stenson Lock with the Tug
Moments later we became firmly jammed!

The Idiot in the sailor suit had just missed
the opening and hit this bridge head on.

Snapped this because its an interesting old
building.  Looking at it later I realised there
is an owl sitting in the window!

We kept going through Shardlow which was beautiful.  After Shardlow we were through the flood lock and into the River Trent.  Wow! After the confined narrow canals we were all of a sudden in a big wide river - we could breath!  Very like the Thames in nature - except all the big houses lining the banks were missing.  We passed beneath the M1 then Sawley Marina before finally going by the Erewash Canal junction and Trent Lock.  Just after Trent Lock there is a sharp right into the River Soar.  Here the beautiful landscape has as the incongruous backdrop of the huge cooling towers of the Ratcliffe-on-Soar power station.  At the first lock our friends on the Tug caught us up and we traveled the rest of the River Soar together, finally finishing for the day just above Zouche Lock south of Sutton Bonington.

River Trent - first wide river since leaving the Thames

Dramatic sky over Ratcliffe-on-Soar power station

Fish my precious...

14 August 2011 - Willington to Findern and back to Willington

Friends Pam & Phil rang last night to arrange to join us for the day today.  They rang to say they had arrived in Willington at 11am as agreed and we walked along the towpath to meet them.  After the obligatory cup of tea we set off in our usual north-westerly direction.  Two simple requirements - to find somewhere for lunch (ships stores were low) and to find somewhere to turn around to get Pam & Phil back to their car. Phil drove for this part, with only the odd kamikaze hire boat trying to hit us.  Spotted "The Bubble Inn" by lock Stenson Lock 6, sadly too late for us to avoid going through it.  This was the first double lock since we had left the Thames and was a bit of a beast.  Moored below the lock and walked back to the hostelry for an excellent meal - and they allowed the dog in too!
After the meal (and an excellent London Pride) we turned the boat around which involved a bit of reversing then back up through the lock and a return to Willington, this time with Pam having a drive.  Thoroughly enjoyed a great day out with friends.  Said goodbye with the intention of moving out of Willington, but a vote among the crew decided for us to stay put and get up extra specially early tomorrow!

Pam & Phil joined us today.  Sadly out of focus due to a pint of London Pride on the part of the photographer

13 August 2011 - Burton on Trent to Willington

A day of stops and starts today.  Set off mid morning but then stopped at Shobnall Basin to buy some oil to try and combat the annoying squeak that has started in the engine.  Having slowly passed the Marstons brewery complex and the Coors (formally Bass) Brewery we couldn't leave Burton on Trent without imbibing holy water. With that in mind we stopped at a passing pub.  Annie and Lady waited outside (no dogs allowed) while I went in to purchase.  Sadly the Marstons Pedigree was OFF!  The only other cask beer they had was Bombadier.  This however was arctic in temperature with a suspiciously large head on it, no way to present an ale.  Sadly taste was no better than presentation - I am sure the canal water would have tasted better.  So much for the brewing capital of the world.....
Moved through the very pleasant village of Willington, then spotted Mercia Marina on its outskirts.  This is one of the new breed of super-marinas with en-suite pubs, chandlery and free wi-fi so we stopped for a rubber-neck. Nearly bought £100Ks worth of new boat but the sales office was closed so we didnt bother.  Turned telly on and ended up staying the night.

Arty-farty foto. Grooves in side of bridge caused by ropes from horse drawn boats

12 August 2011 - Hopwas to Burton on Trent

Three canals today!  We strted off on the Birmingham & Frazeley Canal which morphs into the Coventry Canal. Then at Fradley Junction we turned right onto the Trent & Mersey.
Moved off from our lovely isolated spot at 11am.  Moored for lunch just before Fradley Junction and had lunch then through the swing bridge at the junction mouth before a 90 degree right onto the Trent & Mersey, immediately followed by a lock.... immediately followed by a water point with ensuite ice cream shop - ideal!   Filled up with water and ice cream.  Teamed up with 2 boats moving up from a Marina in Reading to one in Burton on Trent (saving £2500 a year).  Lots of hire boats coming the other way just setting at the start of their week - none hit us fortunately.  At Wychnor we started looking for somewhere to park up for the night. Met a boat coming through the lock who pointed out that we would now be travelling immediately alongside the A38 dual carriageway and very noisy - furthermore we would be alongside it for the next hour.  Finally away from the road a little we entered a landscape of quarries, heavy industry and lorry parks - so we kept on going.  At last, 2 locks later we found a lovely spot just north of Tattenhill lock.

Filling up at Fradley Junction

Being overtaken by lorries on the A38

11 August 2011 - Polesworth to Hopwas

By midday we had passed Alvecote, our furthest point north yesterday.  Stopped at Amington to get some shopping and grab some lunch.  Met a group of scouts and their leaders from Cheltenham on a hire boat coming through Glascote Locks.  Seemed to be having a great time but their buoyancy aids left a lot to be desired. Mid afternoon we arrived at Fazeley Junction and turned right onto the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal and continuing north. We stopped for the night next to Hopwas Wood Bridge on the side of a very steep hill with the River Tame beneath.

Its necessary to post a forward watch going round some of the tighter bends

Mooring spot for 11 August

10 August 2011 - Atherstone to Polesworth

Rod and Sue joining us for the day today - they are coming for hair appointments.  Agreed to meet them at Polesworth, just outside Tamworth - they are travelling from Rugby where they stayed Bed & Breakfast last night.  Ceilidh arrived 20 minutes after Rod & Sue, we moored up and had a cuppa.  Then, we set off north with Rod helming.  Stopped at Alvecote Marina for lunch and had a walk around the ruins of Alvecote Priory.  Had lunch at the 'Samuel Barlow' pub which is part of the marina.  Very nice, we would heartily recommend the pub, grub and Chef to all.  Turning the boat around at the Marina in what had become a very strong wind was a bit of a mission, then we set off back to Polesworth for Rod & Sue to collect their car - I hope they enjoyed the day as much as we did.  Back on our own again we had to travel all the way back to Hartsworth to turn the boat.  With it again pointing north we found a suitable spot to stay the night with a high hedge sheltering us from a wet and windy night.

A lovely collection of pristine working boats in front of the 'Samuel Barlow'

9 August 2011 - Bedworth to Atherstone

Refilled grease container for stern tube - messy. No locks for the first half of the day.  Stopped for water at British Waterways Hartshill Yard which is itself a piece of history.  A range of old buildings including an empty but perfectly formed blacksmiths shop.  After lunch we came upon Atherstone locks - a flight of 11.  The boat in front complained they had been in the queue for 3 hours - but we just followed them right through with hardly any delay.  Annie was genuinely pleased to be back operating locks - you don't get to speak to people when there are no locks, locks on a canal are much more sociable.  I hadn't considered that!  They also allow Lady to hop off the boat every now and then. Moored up for the night in the pound below lock 9.

8 August 2011 - Hinckley to Bedworth

Morning taken up with a trip to the vets and anti-biotics for a poorly dog.  Back at the boat the crew held a focus group meeting - where next?  I voted to continue on the Ashby, Annie to do a big ring involving the Coventry canal, Trent & Mersey and Grand Union.  We are a democratic family, and after the votes were counted, the ring it was. Thank heavens for democracy.

Set off after lunch, but pulled over once when the rain got too heavy.  Made it to the entrance of the Ashby Canal by tea time and we called it a day at Bedworth.

The Ring - current location bottom of the Ashby (lower left) Target is Braunston (lower right) estimated time 58 hours (about 2 weeks)

7 August 2011 - Hinckley to Sutton Wharf & return

The military operation succeeded! Annie cycled to Aunty Wins whilst I moved the boat next to an industrial area in Hinckley that we had previously reccied - with a road only 50ft from the tow path (Aunty is range impaired with her broken bits).  Annie booked a taxi to meet us and we all arrived at the appointed place near enough at the same moment.

Loaded Annie & Win into the boat and after the obligatory cup of tea and tour of the boat, set off to find somewhere to turn around.  Trinity Marina was right next to us and offered an obvious place, but is bedecked with signs saying No Turning! Danger of Death or some such.  We wanted to have a look at the marina as friends keep their boat there, so turned in slowly looking for somewhere to moor.  As the visitor mooring hove into view we were confronted by a naval destroyer, several yachts and a tall ship.  All radio controlled of course, having some sort of event.  Thinking the owners might get peeved if I stopped there crushing the Lilliputian Navy we made for the single empty pontoon, nearly making a hash of it as the wind whipped across the basin.  A native helped us moor the boat and we chatted to several more friendly natives after we had had a look around (we found Mick and Sue's boat nb Wakanui but they were not aboard).  Wasn't looking forward to turning boat to get out again with strong wind and little maneuvering room.  Friendly native advised us to head for exit in full reverse and we couldnt fail.  Not sure about this as exit is 7ft gap in continuous concrete wall 1/2 mile long and (it seemed) 1/2 mile away with what was now a hurricane blowing.  Closed eyes and went for it - moments later we were right in the middle of the 7ft gap and popping out back into the canal.  Friendly native gave thumbs up and we waved thanks.

Annie and Aunty Win with broken bit

Now going in the right direction we had a superb cruise along the Ashby passing Dadlington and Stoke Golding.  We partook of Ham & Eggs at the canalside cafe at Sutton Wharf  - have you noticed there aren't any cafes any more - they have all turned into restaurants.  Then winding the boat we headed back with ever increasing and ever dramatic cloud building behind us.  Two bridges from home the rain hit - so sharply that you could see it raining hard at the front of the boat, whilst it was still dry at the back!  We moored at this morning's start pont and drank tea until the rain subsided, called a taxi and said bye bye to Aunty Win with whom we had had a lovely day.  Bit dingy but we decided to remain here for the night given the weather.

6 August 2011 - Bedworth to Hinckley

Entrance to the Ashby Canal off the Coventry Canal

After exchanging contact details with Alan & Di, set off northwards on the Coventry canal.  After only 30 minutes we came to the junction with the Ashby canal - this is a *very* sharp right - more a 3 point turn.  We quickly found the Ashby a very different canal from those we had traveled along so far.  No locks at all is the main difference and also very shallow.  It is another 'contour canal' with sudden sharp bends, usually obscured by trees.  There is little traffic along it and when you do find something coming the other way, it is always in the middle of a bend, usually coming at you under a bridge.  You cant slow down for every blind bend on the off chance something might be coming - it takes too long.  You develop therefore a kamikaze approach.  Full speed into blind bends and bridges, knowing that statistically you are likely to be fine.  Problems come when in the middle of the bend a boat appears.... now right on top of you.  With luck, lightening reflexes throw the boat into full reverse and you scream to a stop inches from the other boat (they meanwhile have been doing the same).  Both boats pass one another and we wave and shout"lovely morning",  "Yes, isnt it!" they reply noone giving any indication that everything has not always been fully under control and two 15 ton boats had not almost crashed head on.  As soon as they are passed, hand goes to throttle and up goes the speed again.

We had planned to visit Annie's Aunt in Hinckley but we had some difficulty finding moorings - the edges are so shallow, when we stop we are so far out from the side, the plank wont reach the bank.  Eventually we moored up, got the bikes out and cycled across the fields to Aunty Win's just beating a monsoon downpour by the skin of our teeth.  Cup of tea and arrangements made to take her with us for a days boating tomorrow.

5 August 2011 - Brinklow to Bedworth

A good bit cooler than of late, but at least a dry day.  Walked dog through fields while Annie prepared breakfast then set off.  Moving past Rugby and towards Coventry but still out in the country with no built up areas, just the occasional farm.  An intermittent squeak from the engine slowly became worse during the morning.  When an unattended boat floated out in front of us, mooring pins having come out, Annie jumped off to re-tie it.  I used the opportunity to up the engine covers and investigate the squeak. Verdict that its a bearing in one of the alternators (we have two) and not a show stopper.

By 1pm we arrived at Hawkesbury Junction which is the northerly end of the North Oxford canal, where it meets the Coventry canal.  This is a lovely spot, full of canal memorabilia, including an old steam engine house.  Moored the boat and wandered in to town to buy bread & milk.

Immediately before the junction there is an insane little lock that drops the boat all of 6 inches down to the level of the Coventry Canal.  Here we got talking to Alan and Di of Nb Henry Edward Thomas, a conversation which was resumed when we both stopped for water just round the corner.  Agreeing that we couldnt keep chatting on the water point (other people needed it) we decided to adjourn to a mooring two bridges further up, showing a waterside pub next to it.  When we got there the pub was derelict and the mooring empty but for one unattended boat.  Non-plussed we pulled out chairs on the bank and cracked a couple of bottles of wine.  Stayed here for the night..... Just before turning in Alan and Di walked passed, they had seen a boat coming along in the dark, big headlight on with lots of music blaring.  It came passed at speed, missed our two boats but T boned the other moored boat - bang!  They swiftly reversed and continued on their noisy way.

The Newbold Tunnel.  Congrats to BW for installing such a magnificent lighting scheme!

4 August 2011 - Braunston to Brinklow

Good old British weather!  The combines worked throughout the night - we could hear them - until 4am.  Which coincidentally is when it started hammering down with rain.  By 9am the heavy rain had gone so we set off, Annie making bacon butties as we went along.  Braunston is the junction of the Grand Union Canal and the north section of the Oxford.  We were turning left, back onto the north Oxford.  We stopped for nearly an hour to wander around Midland Chandlers based right at the junction and bought lots of bits and bobs.

Braunston is the middle of the canal world.  Much like Muslims with Mecca, Canal People turn towards Braunston at dawn and dusk, doffing caps at the former and raising a glass at the latter.  This centre of the canal-multiverse manifests itself in the form of ghosts.  Long dead wooden working boats have been resurrected by those with the faith, and now haunt the canals around Mecca Braunston. You pass them, sometimes sad and decaying, sometimes sunk, but often beautifully restored and painted with just a patina of rust.  Several went the other way during the day - two lovely pairs of motor and butty heading down to the Thames.  Then as we moved further north modern gaily painted tin cans much like ours took over and we saw no more of the ghosts.

Ghosts of the past wandering Braunston's waterways

Medieval ridge and furrow ploughing

Echos of the past extend even further back in the form of medieval ridge and furrow plough marks that cover many of the fields running down to the canal. Corrugated card board Annie calls them.  These were formed using early ploughs, pulled by oxen.  They have survived by the land only having been used for grazing since enclosure of the old open fields.

  A steady rain fell all day, interspersed occasionally with short periods of torrential rain.  However it was still quite warm and not at all unpleasant - until it started running down your neck.....  Son Mark was en-route from Southport to Fleet and had promised to call in for a cup of tea.  He tracked us using Google Latitude and duly turned up on an over-bridge at 5pm.  We stayed at the spot to have our evening meal after Mark left, then moved the boat about a mile further west, just outside Brinklow for the night.

3 August 2011 - Wormleighton to Braunston

Upped pins and set off mid morning while it was still quite cool.  This section of the Oxford north of Fenny Compton is a 'contour canal' that is it follows the contours, going round the hills rather than over the top via locks.  There are therefore 10 drop dead gorgeous lock free miles as far as Napton.  The weather was perfick and the landscape more than perfick.  Spent time spotting how many tractors and combines (wildly active with rain forecast tomorrow) had amber flashy lights on.  Then spent time wondering why a combine working in the middle of a huge field with no living soul for an imperial mile.... should need a bar of amber flashing lights on top. Probably to scare the field mice,
After said 10 lock free miles Napton comes along to bite you on the bum with 8 locks all in one go.  Safely through these the Oxford Canal quickly comes to an end and we joined the Grand Union - again lock free so we made good time.  Moored for the night about a mile outside Braunston Village.

Napton top lock with glorious Warwickshire as a backdrop

2 August 2011 - Banbury to Wormleighton

Lots of boats started passing us very early in order to beat the heat.  We didnt join them. The dog has been 'off colour' the last few days and Annie cycled back into Banbury to find a pet shop for tablets and dog food.  This allowed us to set off around 10.30.   Lots of boats seemed to be coming the other way and not many in our direction.  We passed through Cropredy for the third time - this time even more congested than before with the impending festival.  Signs have appeared on the locks on the Oxford Canal will be closed from 4pm to 9am until further notice because of a shortage of water. Its a good thing that we are nearly off the Oxford.  Stopped at the Wharf Inn in Fenny Compton and the 'Nectar' was rather pleasant.  Finally moored about a mile north of Fenny Compton opposite the humps and bumps of a DMV - the deserted medieval village of Wormleighton.

Poor TV signal requires a big aerial....